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Ozone and its uses in Koi keeping.
Ozone systems provide the ultimate weapon in
the Koi keeper's armoury in the constant fight against disease and the
struggle to maintain superb water quality. We have seen many
advancements in Koi system filtration in recent years – new filters, new
media, Bio UVs, new probiotic filter products all designed to improve water
quality and filtration and thereby ultimately Koi health. None of these however
comes close to delivering the benefits of Ozone systems, the advantages of which have long
been recognised by marine hobbyists and like so many other great ideas, only now
being accepted by the Koi world.
Without dispute, Ozone is the most effective natural
bactericide and viricide of all disinfecting agents available to the Koi keeper.
In our pond environment Ozone: -
- Is highly effective in removing organics,
and reducing ammonia and
nitrites.
- is used as a sterilising agent to kill viruses, bacteria and
other pathogens.
- is economical and non-polluting when used correctly.
- improves biological and mechanical filtration by burning off
proteins, ammonia and nitrite straight to nitrates and by enriching our pond water with
Oxygen.
- lowers biological oxygen demand (BOD) and raises
the REDOX
potential in the water (the ability of the water to oxidise pathogens).
- Can remove toxic pollutants, such as hydrocarbons and other
toxic substances from our pond water which cannot be achieved by any
other form of mechanical or
biological filtration.
For our Koi ponds, in order to dose the pond water with the
correct amount of Ozone we have to install an Ozone generator and a method of introducing
the Ozone into the water in order to achieve the correct level of
disinfection.
This is achieved by passing air or Oxygen through an
electronic gizmo that generates Ozone by passing a high voltage electrical
discharge through the air flow. The Ozone thus created is then drawn
or pumped into a special protein skimmer, Ozone reactor or a 'reaction
vessel' especially designed for the purpose. When the Ozone comes into contact with the water it quickly burns off
polluting organic material and breaks down back into Oxygen.
As well as disinfecting the water and killing bacteria,
viruses and free swimming parasites, Ozone also kills algal cells.
The disinfected
water returned to the pond is also saturated with oxygen so that the biological filter is able
to work at its full potential. Ozone is so powerful that it is like having a
dose of Chloramine T, Virkon or Potassium Permanganate in the pond,
without any of the chemical side effects. As Ozone also burns off proteins and
organics water clarity is improved enormously and the water sparkles to the point
where the colour of the Koi is not impeded in any way by the depth of water, and
Koi that
have pure white skin at the surface also have pure white skin 6 feet down.
In the example (below) the pond on the right does not use an
Ozone system - note the air bubbles from the large air stone which look slightly brown or
yellow in colour. The pond on the left uses an Ozone system. Note the blue - white
stream of bubbles from the air stone. This helps demonstrate how Ozone removes the
proteins from pond water which cause the water to look yellow/brown and murky.

The pond (below) utilises an Ozone system to give the superb
water clarity you can see, even from this low resolution photograph. The two Tanchos in
this picture are swimming six feet below the surface!

Whilst not a Utopia, since even with the use of Ozone
Koi
can still need individual medication and treatment if required, the other major advantage
of Ozone in our pond systems is that it virtually eliminates the risk of cross infection
between Koi. So even if a fish is introduced into the pond environment which itself is
ill, e.g. carrying a bacterial or viral disease, this is much less likely to be transmitted to
other Koi. Further, any treatment employed to an infected Koi has a much improved
chance of working effectively as the Koi are living in a much cleaner environment,
biologically speaking i.e. in an environment containing fewer harmful
pathogens.
This is especially noticeable when topically treating
surface wounds, which once cleaned, heal much faster and more cleanly.
Similarly if parasites were present on certain
Koi, the
water would still need to be medicated to eradicate the parasites on the body of the
Koi
affected. Any medication used however, also works more effectively as the pond water
is maintained at a much higher quality, with a higher Redox potential and with a lower
biological Oxygen demand (BOD).
Clearly
the benefits of using an ozone system increase in a direct proportion to
stocking levels, and in our case we have particularly noticed the difference
when using ozone systems on highly stocked ponds of newly imported Tosai
(one year old Koi). Tosai have much less well developed immune systems than
adult Koi, and easily succumb to stress related issues caused by overstocking –
leading to poor water quality, high bacteria count and the associated risk
of parasite infestations.
Since
using ozone systems on our Tosai ponds we have noticed a substantial
reduction in mortalities, infection and parasite problems generally. Last
year over the course of the entire season, we lost only one Tosai from
imported stocks of around 900. In previous years an average loss rate would
have been in the order of 40 – 50 or 5%
Frequently Asked
Questions.
What is Ozone?
Ozone gas occurs naturally in the atmosphere. When a molecule of
Oxygen, O², is bound to a third oxygen atom, it becomes Ozone, or 0³. Ozone is an
unstable bluish water-soluble gas with a characteristic smell. At low levels it
makes the air smell fresh and its colour makes the sky blue. Ozone is the 2nd strongest
known oxidiser and the most powerful readily available water sanitiser. It kills
bacteria and viruses over 3,000 times faster and is a 50% stronger oxidiser than
chlorine. It is unsurpassed for control of many types of common bacteria such as E. Coli
and faecal coliforms as well as the de-activation of virus, fungus, mould, mildew and
cysts, and is not carcinogenic.
How does it Work?
Ozone is nature's way of purifying the air we breathe. As
ozone circulates and comes into contact with airborne (or waterborne) pathogens, one of the three oxygen
atoms detaches itself from the Ozone molecule, attaches itself to the pollutant and
oxidises it and turns it into a safer compound. Ozone is nature's way of cleaning
our environment.
Ozone is such a strong germicide that only a few micrograms per
litre are required to demonstrate germicidal action; it destroys all pathogenic and
saprophytic microbes in water. Factors like humidity, temperature, pH, Ozone
concentration levels, type of organism and contact time, will affect the kill rate for pathogens,
but the action of Ozone gas in water is instantaneous and after oxidation, Ozone returns to its
original form of Oxygen, without leaving any toxic by-products or residues.
Ozone is a natural disinfectant and steriliser and unlike
chlorine, it does not produce trihalomethanes or chloroforms in water
and so leaves no harmful toxins or residues in the water.
Without dispute, scientifically speaking, Ozone is the most
effective natural bactericide and viricide of all the disinfecting agents.
How do we measure the
the effect of
Ozone on the pond water?
The Ozone dosing of water is measured in millivolt terms and
is expressed as the REDOX or ORP level (Reduction /Oxidation
potential) of the water. Normal pond water will have a REDOX level of around 240mv
or less. Sterile water has a REDOX level of around 700mv. Some Ozone generators are
designed to automatically regulate the ozone dosing to keep the REDOX level at a preset
level, normally around 350mv - 380mv in a healthy aquatic environment, so that the water
is not sterile or anything like, since it could not then support life.
- What is a Redox reaction?
-
A chemical reaction in which electrons are removed from one
atom (which is thereby oxidised) and added to another (which is thereby reduced). The
movement of electrons is then measured on a millivolt scale.
What is Oxidisation?
Oxidisation is the process that causes steel and iron to
rust, an apple to shrivel & go brown once cut open and is also responsible for
the degeneration or rusting of our bodies, causing cellular breakdown.
Oxidisation or oxidative stress has been linked to many degenerative and chronic diseases
including heart disease and cancer. It is also responsible for premature ageing.
Oxidisation permanently disrupts and damages cell structure, thereby killing simple
cellular organisms very quickly. Our beneficial nitrifying bacteria employ the process of
oxidation to remove harmful ammonia and nitrite from our pond water by converting
Ammonia
to Nitrite and then Nitrite to Nitrate.
What causes Oxidisation?
Oxidisation is caused by oxygen molecules that are missing
an electron, making them unstable. Oxygen cannot exist in this unstable form and has to be
stabilised. The molecules collide with healthy, stable molecules be they in metal,
or living cells and then steal an electron in order to stabilise themselves.
This damages and de-stabilises the molecule that they have collided with leaving it now
missing an electron itself. The formally healthy molecule is now itself an unstable
'free
radical' and will also try to stabilise itself by colliding with another healthy molecule
and stealing one of its electrons. This creates a knock-on effect that damages
and destroys living cellular structure, and in our pond environment this includes
parasites, viruses, bacteria, algae or any other living organism with a simple
cellular structure.
If Ozone kills bacteria, what about
my Bio-Filter - won't that be affected?
Yes
- but only beneficially! Pathogens are killed instantly as they pass
through the ozone stream in the ozone reactor or protein skimmer, but
obviously your nitrosammonas and nitrobacter do not, as they live on
your filter media. True, they are free swimming as well, and any that
pass through the Ozone system will be zapped. However, it is a
recognised fact that the beneficial filter bacteria have relatively
short lives but can multiply very quickly given ideal conditions and it
has been scientifically proven (Hueckstedt 1960) that nitrification
bacterial populations increase faster in an ozonised system than in a
normal non-ozonised system. This is almost certainly because the entire
pond environment is cleaner and considerably more aerobic (oxygen rich)
in an ozone treated pond, and it is a well known fact that nitrifying
bacteria reproduce and perform much better in oxygen rich systems. Also
some pathogens are anaerobic (live in a zero or reduced oxygen
environment) and in a pond treated with ozone there will be virtually no
chance of anaerobic conditions existing. So the high Redox levels of the
pond water is of considerable benefit to our friendly bacteria, but is
definitely the enemy of pathogens.
Extract from Professor Heuckstedt
1960 on the use of ozone in aquaculture.
“It should be discussed whether ozone treatment and
biological activities of bacteria co-operate. The suspicion that by
ozone treatment not only the harmful but also the useful bacteria
(nitrification bacteria for instance) could be killed is quite obvious.
But strange enough this is unfounded. Either these bacteria are not in
the free water but mostly at the bottom of the aquarium or on the algae
or they grow faster than they die. Probably both versions are correct.
It can definitely be said that nitrification bacteria will die faster
without ozone than with ozone”
If the Ozone kills only on direct
contact in the Ozone reactor - what kills Algae and other organics that don't pass through
the Ozone stream?
Ozone raises the Redox potential of the water
substantially. This renders bacteria, algal spores and other organics much more
susceptible to oxidisation - to having their cells destroyed or disrupted, even though
they are not necessarily in direct contact with Ozone. Put another way, chemically
the pond water is far more reactive as it is saturated with Oxygen, and single cell
organisms or organisms with a simple cellular structure are easily oxidised and therefore
tend to have a shorter life span. Direct contact with Ozone in the Ozone reactor
means instant death, the higher Redox of the pond water means cells are easily
oxidised (killed) and cannot reproduce effectively so their population decreases.
OK great, but if Ozone is so strong and effective at killing bacteria etc
how do I know its not going to damage or kill my Koi?
Simple, the Koi never come into contact with ozone gas – only with water
treated by ozone, remember, the water
is treated, or disinfected by bubbling ozone gas through the pond water supply via a diffuser, or in a special skimmer or ozone reactor. Any residual ozone produced and not used up
in the water flow gasses off to atmosphere and there is never more than
a tiny trace of ozone actually present in the pond water.
Ozone treatment leaves ‘free radical’ oxygen atoms available in the
water which are responsible for the oxidisation process and which cause
cell damage. Bacteria and protozoan parasites are single cellular
organisms so they are relatively easy to kill – damage or disrupt one
cell and you have effectively destroyed the organism. Koi are higher
life forms and are made up of many billions of cells (like humans) and
can afford to lose one or two, they do so every day naturally. Cells
reproduce where necessary throughout their lives so there is no
detrimental affect on our Koi as a result of using ozone any more than
there would be by using the correct level of any established Koi
medication in our ponds.
I've been told that Ozone makes the
water sterile and can mean that the Koi's immune system deteriorates as it doesn't have to
work so hard any more?
This is simply not true. In a sterile pond environment, the Redox
level is around 700mv - at this level all life would
cease to exist in the pond. The ideal Redox level of a Koi pond
is around 380mv. At this level the pathogen levels are
substantially reduced but your Koi will be very happy and healthy.
Also there is absolutely no scientific evidence that disinfection of
pond water by oxidisation, whether this be by ozonisation or
chemical additives such as potassium permanganate, chloramine T or
Virkon affects the immune systems of fish, including Koi.
Remember, we are using ozone to lower the level of
pathogens in the water, not eradicate them entirely, which would be
virtually impossible – so the Koi’s immune system still has plenty
of work to do when necessary.
In their natural state, in rivers or lakes, each fish has a
comparatively massive volume of water in which to live and bacterial
loading is much lower than in a man made Koi pond. Using ozone
simply helps us reproduce nature. It is like attaching your pond to
a freshwater stream, with new water flowing in on one side, and old
flowing out of the other - effectively continually flushing out the
system. Would a Koi's immune system weaken in nature because it is
not continually subjected to high bacteria counts? Of course not -
quite the reverse!
In our experience of using Ozone systems over the last 10 years we
have seen absolutely no evidence that Koi removed from an ozone
treated pond and moved into a 'conventionally' filtered pond are at
any disadvantage, and we see no increase whatsoever in the incidence
of disease because of moving Koi between these environments.
Ozone is widely used in commercial fish farming
applications in order to ensure the health and well being of fish
fry and to enable the best possible water quality to ensure proper
development of young fish.
Marine and Tropical fish keepers have been using ozone systems to manage fish health
for many many years and we do not see any detrimental affects to
fish health – quite the reverse, so why should Koi be different?
This is
simply ill informed nonsense from the prophets of doom who
simply can't - or won't accept ‘new’ technology, even when it works
brilliantly.
Can I use an Ozone system in place
of a conventional filter?
No, you should consider an Ozone system to be a part of your
overall filtration strategy, as it will not replace either the mechanical or biological
elements of your conventional filter, but it will enhance the performance of your existing
system thus rendering it far more efficient.
Can I still treat my pond with
chemicals? and what happens when I do?
Yes of course, from time to time you made need to use a pond
medication for parasites etc. When you do, simply switch off your Ozone
generator. Ozone would destroy chemicals in the pond very quickly and would render
your treatment useless. When your treatment is complete, switch on again and the
Ozone will clear the chemical residue very quickly.
I have heard that Ozone is dangerous to human health - is
this true?
Ozone is a powerful
oxidising agent, and certainly if used carelessly or incorrectly it
could be dangerous to health. However the same is true of almost all the
chemicals we use in our hobby, even salt. Potassium Permanganate and
Chloramine T are powerful oxidising agents and need to be handled and
used correctly and definitely not ingested. Similarly Malachite
Green, and Mercurochrome are dangerous substances which should not be
handled with bare hands. Of course we know this and treat these
substances with the respect they deserve. Indeed none of the
substances we use in our day to day Koi hobby should be ingested,
inhaled or come in to contact with bare skin - again common sense.
Similarly we
certainly don't want to breath in Ozone constantly as it can irritate
the respiratory system, and therefore Ozone systems must be specified
and installed correctly, with any residual Ozone produced gassing off to
atmosphere - not inside your filter house! This is common sense, just as
we should always install residual current circuit breaker devices in our electrical circuits
anywhere near water - to prevent any chance of electricity and water
mixing - definitely not a good idea!
Yet we frequently
hear from people who seem to have an inbuilt fear of 'new' technology,
or simply because they don't understand even the basics of how Ozone
systems work, that they must be 'dangerous' and should be avoided.
Ozone has been in use as a safe and effective disinfectant for
ventilation systems in offices, factories and even ocean going liners
since the 2nd world war. It is used in modern bottling plants to
disinfect plastic bottles before filling as conventional sterilization
methods using steam would damage the containers. It is now commonly
used in wineries to disinfect bottles, casks and other equipment.
Ozone systems are now also widely used in food production environments
to keep food fresh longer and reduce food related odours. Ozone is also being used by some major water authorities to disinfect
our drinking water instead of Chlorine simply because it is far more
effective and is much, much safer.
Ozone has been used in human medical treatments since the
first world war. It is, and has been used for the treatment of
MRSA and other bacterial issues that do not respond to conventional
antibiotics. It is used for the treatment of Arthritis, Rheumatism,
Hepatitis, skin lesions, ulceration and for a wide variety of internal
infections and disorders. It has even been used as a cancer treatment.
It is also now widely used in dentistry for disinfection, wound cleansing and
improved healing. Download
ozone use in medicine
here to find out the scientifically documented facts - this will help anyone to dispel the
myths.
It is most unlikely that such systems would have been developed or used
if there had been an unacceptable human health hazard. Ozone is
used in many facets of industry, for many different industrial
applications and no-one has ever died or been seriously injured as a
result of ozone poisoning! The same cannot be said about most of the
other commonly used chemicals that we regularly use in Koi keeping.
World-wide, In over 100 years of ozone usage with some installations
generating ozone at a rate of over 250kg/hour there is not a single
record of inhalation of ozone causing even a single death - compare this
with Hydrogen peroxide, chlorine and other chemical-based disinfectants,
biocides and germicides... Even excesses of salt have been the cause of
death...
Ozone has a very
distinctive sharp, 'fresh' smell which many people identify with a
disinfecting agent and it can be detected by the human nose at levels 10 to 30 times lower than that which is recognised as being harmful to
human health. In addition, Ozone is very unstable, and once created,
immediately begins to decompose back to Oxygen again. This
decomposition takes between a matter of several seconds and several
minutes. It does not therefore even exist in a 'dangerous' state for a
significant time.
We can therefore
categorically state that a properly installed Ozone system would be a
very safe part of your Koi filtration system and one with which there
would be no associated health risks whatsoever. The prophets of
doom will have to look elsewhere!
Can I dispense with my UV system?
In theory you can. However in practice we find it is best to leave the
UV in place if you already have one fitted. Ozone generators have to
be serviced from time to time and the UV can serve to keep the water
clear whilst the Ozone system is switched off. We would recommend
leaving your UV in place if you are using dry air as an input gas,
although for most of the year you wont need it! However once you
start using ozone then you probably wont need
a UV ever again!
Can I still use salt in my pond?
Yes, absolutely. The Ozone won't affect the salt and
you will find that protein skimmers produce a lot more foam with salt in the water, so it
actually works even more efficiently.
All sounds very complex - do I
really need an Ozone system?
No, we can't claim an Ozone system is an essential
part of a Koi pond filter system, but that's what was said about bottom drains and
mechanical pre-filters such as sieves or vortexes a few
years ago. Now very few 'proper' Koi ponds are built without these essential
items. For the serious Koi keeper we would recommend an Ozone system be included as
part of the overall filtration strategy. We believe that in the near future, Ozone
systems will become just as much of a necessity as a bottom drain.
Koi are beautiful but expensive creatures and each year
thousands of Koi die needlessly from all kinds of illnesses most of which are simply
caused by poor water quality - nothing more. In any Koi pond one of the eternal and
recurring problems that we have to overcome is bacterial disease and in a well stocked and
mature Koi pond the bacterial load on the system can become very high - especially in the
summer months. Without doubt the single biggest benefit of installing an Ozone system is
that the bacterial load on your system (and therefore on your Koi) will be drastically
reduced. Ergo less disease - more healthy Koi. Unquestionably water quality
will also be transformed using Ozone. Ask yourself why have marine/tropical
aquarists been using Ozone to help manage water quality for the last 20 years or so?
Why is the Koi fraternity always the last to catch on?
The saying that we are not Koi keepers - we are water keepers is absolutely true.
If your pond water quality is superb, your Koi are more likely to be healthy and live
longer - it's as simple as that.
What comprises a
complete Ozone system?
We need several items to build a complete Ozone
system, rather like building your own Hi-Fi system. First we must have an Ozone
Generator to create the Ozone initially and optionally a Redox controller which enables
the system to operate automatically and switch on and off the Ozone supply as
required. In most larger systems we then need some kind of Protein Skimmer,
ozone reactor or mixing chamber to mix the
Ozone produced with the water as efficiently as possible, allow it do 'disinfect' the
water, and then allow any residual Ozone to decay before the water is returned to the pond. We can
also install an oxygen generator, as Ozone systems utilising oxygen as a
feed gas are super efficient. Without doubt however, the most important elements of any Ozone system
is the efficiency of the Ozone mixing system employed coupled to correct
installation techniques.
But Like any good Hi-Fi system, it is pointless
purchasing a very high quality amplifier if the speakers you will be using are poor
quality. Similarly you can spend a fortune on a high quality CD player but if the
amplifier is wrongly specified or poor quality you won't get the performance out of the
system that you should. You get the idea, it's the same with Ozone systems - you
need to match the Generator to the mixing system and other system elements to achieve the
desired result.
At the smaller end of the scale, the Ozone
reactors and skimmers tend to be very efficient, and this therefore means that the amount
of Ozone we need can be reduced because the reactors are very good at mixing water/Ozone
for optimum performance. Efficiency can be increased further by the addition of an
oxygen generator.
At the other end of the scale, we need to
produce more Ozone than we strictly need with air driven systems as the
ozone reactors are not as efficient when
scaled up, when larger volumes of air are used, and more ozone gases to waste
as mixing is less efficient. To overcome this issue, mixing
systems employed on larger systems tend to be of a different type or
design in order to ensure efficient mixing - for example venturi
injection. Oxygen generators can be
retro fitted to just about all ozone systems to massively increase
efficiency.
The technology sound
complex, are these systems reliable?
Early Ozone generation
equipment was not particularly reliable, as the generators produced a lot of heat, and
early systems were water cooled. These were large and cumbersome and needed fairly
regular maintenance. The latest systems are all air cooled, are far more
efficient , use less power and therefore produce less heat energy. The smaller systems , like our own use
relatively tiny amount of electrical energy and are simple and very
reliable devices which are guaranteed for one year. There are no moving parts in
the generators other than cooling fans and the only maintenance required is an annual clean
or replacement of the generator
electrodes.
Even the
larger, more sophisticated units in our range are air cooled but still use a comparatively small amount of electricity and
there is therefore little wasted energy to convert to heat anyway. Again these units
need minimum maintenance. The only moving parts are the cooling fans. These are also
guaranteed for one year.
All of our Ozone systems are easily maintained.
Cells in the ozone generators normally have an expected life of around
4000 hours of continuous use , or approximately 1 year of normal usage
where the unit would be expected to be switched on and off by a
controller or timer - before replacement is required. Costs of servicing an ozone generator vary
between £95 and around £160, or around the same as replacing the tube
from a Bio UV annually.
Oxygen generators would need new molecular sieves every
4000 hours of continuous use, again around 1 year, assuming they are
switched on and off as required in normal use.
The protein skimmers
and ozone reactors have no
moving parts (other than adjustable valves) and need no maintenance -
not even cleaning.
The only item which needs more
regular attention relates to systems utilising Redox controllers where the actual Redox
sensor should be cleaned with a soft toothbrush about once per week to prevent it fouling.
Ok, I'm convinced, but
how do I choose the right system?
Firstly, you obviously need to know your pond
gallonage - then consider some of the factors which will influence the
ozone requirement by studying the tables below. From this you can calculate the size of Ozone generator you will
need by using the formulae of between 0.4gm/hour and just over 1gm/hour of Ozone for every 1000
gallons if using dry air as an input gas. When using oxygen as a feed
gas, via an oxygen generator you will only need 0.1gm - 0.2gm of Ozone
per 1000 gallons.
|
Start Point |
Using Air as a feed gas |
Comments |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Recommended Dosing |
0.4gm Ozone / 1000 gallons (4500 Litres) |
|
|
Add / thousand gallons |
0gm |
0.1gm |
0.2gm |
Add this to the starting dose recommendation for each parameter |
|
Stocking Density |
Low |
Medium |
High |
Average stocking density is 1 fish Inch per 10 gallons |
|
Pond condition |
Clean |
Average |
Dirty |
The more detritus and sludge in the pond, the higher the BOD (
Biological oxygen demand) |
|
Planted |
No |
Somewhat |
Heavily |
Plants, including Algae and Blanket weed use oxygen and
therefore raise the BOD |
|
Temperature |
10 deg C or less |
10 - 15 deg C |
Above 15 deg C |
The higher the temperature the higher the metabolism of all
organic life forms in the pond so the higher the BOD |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Start Point |
Using Oxygen as a feed gas |
Comments |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Recommended Dosing |
0.1gm Ozone / 1000 gallons (4500 Litres) |
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Add / thousand gallons |
0gm |
0.05gm |
0.1gm |
Add the amounts (left) to the starting dose recommendation for each parameter |
|
Stocking Density |
Low |
Medium |
High |
The average stocking density is probably around 1 fish Inch per 10 gallons |
|
Pond condition |
Clean |
Average |
Dirty |
The more detritus and sludge in the pond, the higher the BOD (
Biological oxygen demand) |
|
Planted |
No |
Somewhat |
Heavily |
Plants, including Algae and Blanket weed use oxygen and
therefore raise the BOD |
|
Temperature |
10 deg C or less |
10 - 15 deg C |
Above 15 deg C |
The higher the temperature the higher the metabolism of all
organic life forms in the pond so the higher the BOD |
We can obviously help by recommending a
suitable system for your given application - please e-mail for further information at
ozone@Koicarp.org.uk
Ozone Systems
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